FOOD : Casual fine dining at Bonnars The Scott Edinburgh
From the moment you step into this remarkable dining establishment, three details stand out and demand your attention. First, the revelation that this restaurant, alongside the hotel it resides in, is part of the University of Edinburgh is both surprising and impressive. Second, the setting—a breathtaking 18th-century baronial home—adds an air of historical grandeur to your visit. And finally, the pièce de résistance: an extraordinary mural by the renowned Thomas Bonnar, gracing the ceiling like a celestial masterpiece, casting a spellbinding presence over your dining experience. Together, these elements create an ambiance as unforgettable as the meal itself. Welcome to Bonnar’s at The Scott.
REVIEW OF BONNARS AT THE SCOTT, CASUAL FINE DINING IN EDINBURGH
As you admire the elegant dining room, the artistic legacy of Thomas Bonnar who was one of Edinburgh's most esteemed interior designers and architects, becomes unmistakable, with the stunning ceiling leaving a lasting impression. However, it’s the Velvet Lounge where the true historical essence of this space reveals itself. Stepping into this room, virtually untouched since the house's construction in the 1750s, reveals a sumptuous atmosphere with elegance preserved. It's a setting that enhances not just the meal, but the entire experience.
Before your meal begins, you're invited to unwind in the Velvet Lounge. Here, velvet chairs and sofas, paired with the warm glow of low lighting, create an intimate and inviting ambiance, an ideal setting to savour crafted cocktails and indulgent Cremant.
The Bonnar has an A la Carte menu, but for those seeking a curated gastronomic experience, a tasting menu is available by advance request. Naturally, we opted for the tasting menu, priced at £65 for five courses. While many of its offerings are drawn from the A la Carte selection, some dishes can be adjusted to suit individual preferences, allowing for a personalised yet indulgent dining adventure.
At the helm of the kitchen is Pier Berretta, whose career includes working in Paris and completing stages at Copenhagen's renowned Noma. His pedigree is unmistakably reflected in every aspect of the dining experience, from the meticulous plating to the innovative cooking style and the inspired use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
Each dish was a testament to precision, with an emphasis on showcasing the food as the star of the plate. The shellfish chowder, accompanied by smoked butter and sea herbs, was a visual masterpiece. The shellfish was artfully arranged to mimic the form of an artichoke, and the final flourish came with the sauce, elegantly poured tableside to enhance the sensory experience. The starter—an ensemble of endive, grape, and mustard—offered a light and refreshing introduction, perfectly balancing flavours and preparing the palate for the indulgent, sauce-driven, and creamy journey that followed in the tasting menu.
The concept of the dish—hen's egg yolk paired with swede and a luxurious truffle sauce—was undeniably enticing. Visually, it was a triumph, with the gently warm, poached yolk perched elegantly on a bed of earthy mushrooms and tender baby swedes. However, the execution fell short for me. The presence of residual albumen on the yolk was an unexpected distraction that made the dish difficult to enjoy. While the flavours held promise, this small but significant detail detracted from the overall experience.
Any shortcomings of the earlier dish were quickly eclipsed by the arrival of the lamb, accompanied by onion fondant and carrot. Cooked to perfection, the lamb was beautifully pink in the centre, with a tenderness that could only be described as butter-like, melting effortlessly on the palate.
The dessert was something of a mixed experience. The Fernet Branca Gelato with mint and espresso was a triumph in terms of flavour, the interplay of bitters and mint perfectly complemented the bold espresso, evoking a sophisticated twist on a classic affogato. However, the presentation left something to be desired. Served in a bowl, the melting gelato quickly became cumbersome to eat, making it difficult to scoop up with a spoon. It highlighted why affogato is traditionally presented in a cup, a small but impactful detail that could elevate the experience.
The service here strikes a perfect balance between warmth and discretion. The staff are approachable and eager to discuss the menu, offering thoughtful recommendations for both food and drink pairings. Dishes were served promptly, and empty plates were cleared efficiently, ensuring a seamless and enjoyable dining experience.
After dinner, we had the pleasure of viewing one of the bedrooms at The Scott Hotel. Tucked away within the University of Edinburgh's Pollock Halls on the city's South Side, this hotel is a true hidden gem. Its 37 rooms, each uniquely designed with their own character and décor, beautifully blend the timeless charm of history with the conveniences of modern luxury.
The tasting menu at Bonnar's is a fantastic choice for the adventurous foodie, particularly for those who have a deep appreciation for the featured ingredients. It presents a culinary journey filled with bold flavours and unique textures, offering diners the opportunity to experience dishes that might be delightfully unfamiliar. The seasonal changes to the menu are another highlight, ensuring that the freshest ingredients are showcased and providing returning guests with something new to discover each time. While its creative approach is one of its greatest strengths, the menu might be most suited to diners who enjoy stepping out of their comfort zones.
THINGS TO NOTE ABOUT BONNAR’S
They cater for vegetarian, gluten free and nut free, but do inform them of your dietary requirements before dining
They are only open Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm-830pm
They do have an A la Carte menu but you need to request the Tasting Menu
They do offer wine pairings
Bonnars at The Scott, Pollock Halls, 18 Holyrood Park Road, Edinburgh, EH16 5AY www.bonnars.co.uk
My Spoon Award : Silver Spoon 8/10
I was invited by Bonnar’s to review their menu.
Food and drink were complimentary but the views are very much my own.
TartanSpoon is an Award-winning blog that brings you reviews and recommendations on the very best places to eat, drink and stay in Edinburgh, Scotland and beyond.
Adele is a writer, reviewer and judge living in Edinburgh. She sits on the Committee for the Guild of Food Writers (Scottish Events), is a Great Taste Judge for the Guild of Fine Food, Scottish Bakers, Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards and a Judge for the Gin Co-operative awards. Should you wish to work with, invite or collaborate with TartanSpoon, please email tartanspoon@yahoo.co.uk