FOOD - Meet the Producers from the Outer Hebrides - Lewis & Harris
Having wanted to visit the Isles of Harris and Lewis for as long as I can remember, I’ve now managed to visit the islands twice in six months. On both of these occasions, I’ve arrived via Stornoway but the landing on Barra Beach is still my number one thing to do this year! Third time lucky as they say.
MEET THE PRODUCERS TOUR - ISLES OF LEWIS AND HARRIS, THE OUTER HEBRIDES
Visit Outer Hebrides and Food and Drink Scotland very kindly invited me and sponsored me on their Meet the Producer food tour. On my previous visit, I had dined at the Harbour Kitchen and got an insight into life on the island but also the incredible produce available. When this opportunity came up, I was so excited to visit small producers and hear their stories.
This visit I flew into Stornoway airport on a slightly bumpy Loganair flight from Glasgow. Flying was fine but a very scary landing on what is an extremely short runway (I was told after we landed - thank goodness!). Stornoway airport isn’t busy as you can see from the above photos although our flight was full (couldn’t have been more than 30 people onboard).
Stornoway airport is about 10 minutes drive from Stornoway, and best get a taxi which costs under £10. There is a bus which is much cheaper but takes around 40 minutes to get to Stornoway town centre and I think only runs hourly.
Lodgings were at the Caladh Inn. A small but perfectly formed room and I even managed to actually sleep in a single bed without falling out! Room was cosy, large bathroom, comfy bed. Not the Savoy but it was clean and warm, staff were lovely and dinner of fish n chips on my first nights stay was ideal.
There were around fifteen people on our tour, made up of some local businesses looking to stock local suppliers, some travel businesses but all of us were foodies so we all got on very well. The tour was led by the very lovely Julie Sloan from Visit Outer Hebrides who is a whirlwind of information and an ultimate time keeper.
In case you are interested in connecting with these food, drink and travel experts here are their websites and info.
Liz from Hebridean Hampers - www.hebrideanhampers.com. A new hamper business using locally produced artisan foods, both traditional and new, offering A Taste of the Hebrides. Liz was keen to meet more artisan food producers so that they can be added to her hampers of Hebridean gourmet delicacies
Jess and Sarah from Excursions - www. excursions.co.uk. They organise on land activities for cruise ships.
Doro and Jan from Western Isle Tour Guide Association. They were collating information to be passed onto their WITGA team, so that all local guides booked for tours this year have relevant and updated information about food and drink producers on the island.
Iain from Island Spirits Whisky - www.facebook.com/islandspiritwhisky Iain has a whisky shop in Stornoway town centre. Iain often hosts food and drink events/pairings and is always keen to explore new products and collaborations
Linda from Hebridean Guest House - www.hebridean-guest-house.co.uk. Great accommodation in the centre of Stornoway, where you never go hungry. Linda and her team embrace the use of local produce.
Sarah from Buth Bharraigh. www.buthbharraigh.co.uk Sarah owns an award-winning Community shop on Barra and is always on the lookout for new products to stock.
Calum from An Lanntair www.lanntair.com. Calum was exploring food and drink options for this fantastic Stornoway venue.
Kevin from Cala Hotels www.calahotels.com Kevin is the General Manager of the Cabarfeidh Hotel was on the tour to source producer offerings for the whole of the Cala group.
Angela from UHI College www.outerhebrides.uhi.ac.uk/subjects/food--drink/. Angela is a student on professional cookery course, keen to learn about local produce.
To this we also had Beverley from Visit Scotland and the team from Visit Outer Hebrides.
And so the wheels on the bus go round and round, as we set off early morning on our day tour across the islands.
STORNOWAY BLACK PUDDING
Charlie Barley as it is locally known is a worldwide, highly praised brand.
Charles Macleod Butchers produce the amazing Stornoway black pudding that you will see on the menu in many a Scottish and UK restaurant. It’s a premium quality product and I was lucky enough to have been given a guided tour by Rona Macdonald, the manager and daughter of this family run business.
The factory is compact but highly efficient. It’s an incredibly fascinating process of making black pudding and it was nothing like I was expecting or had conjured up in my imagination.
Now we all know what black pudding is right? Its 50% animal blood. Stornoway Black Pudding is made up of beef suet, pork blood, fat, oatmeal and onions.
I had half hoped for large vat of blood where oatmeal and offal were added then mixed by hand. How unbelievably wrong was I. Most of the mixing of ingredients is done off site and the final mix is made in the factory, produced into the large sausage shapes we know and then placed in the oven.
I love black pudding and for me is the best accompaniment with scallops but equally just as fabulous on a morning roll with a runny egg.
Stornoway Black pudding has a wonderful deep umami taste, its less peppery than most, has less large pieces of obvious fat in it and its texture is finer – this is down to the high quality ingredients that are added to the black pudding.
Super easy to cook, just cut off a slice and fry it although I do like to break it up into a crumble so that some of the edges catch and create crispier pieces.
MACHAIR WATER
Driving through a white Winter wonderland, pitted with lochs and hills, you'll come across a crofting township of Carloway on the Isle of Lewis West Coast.
You'll find the restored picturesque croft of Taigh a' Bhealaich which use to belong to the MacArthur family and also home to the Macarthur spring which provides this incredibly pure water for Machair Water. In Gaelic Machair means "fertile plain"
The pristine source or spring for Machair Water is located on peat covered uplands and the water flows from metamorphic rocks known as the “Lewisian Gneiss” the result of geological events nearly 3,000 million years ago.
Scottish water is renowned throughout the world. Machair is not just a Scottish water but, a uniquely Hebridean water.
It's very clean, pure and for me a slightly mineral taste. It's a very fine, silky, almost velvetty water and I especially love their just newly released sparkling water.
I know Scotland has some of the best Cooncil juice in the world, but I think this is a very pristine water and perfect to add to a wee dram if you are that way inclined.
You can order online from their website and they ship across Scotland and the UK - www.machairwater.scot
UIG SMOKED SALMON
Life is good at Uig Lodge, they do it all here. A grand luxury lodge, 4 stunning rooms overlooking Uig Sands connected to their phenomenal seafood restaurant AND on top of that they produce their own smoked salmon! (Of course they do! )
Last week on my tour around Lewis, we popped into see how the salmon is smoked and then gorged ourselves on this beautiful delicate fish.
Uig Lodge purchases farmed salmon from accredited farms across Scotland. After pin boning, the salmon is cured in large ovens, low and slow creating that wonderful delicate soft and silky smoked salmon that has won many awards including a Guild of Fine Food Gold Great Taste Award.
You can purchase this Smoked Salmon straight from Uig Lodge and
you can even visit and take a tour of the facilities yourself, finding out more about the smokery.
If all you want is to eat this delectable Scottish Salmon, then head to Uig Sands Restaurant which has to have one of THE most breathtaking views. The floor to ceiling windows captures the ever changing Uig Bay, and if the salmon doesn’t blow you away (which it will), the vista certainly will!
ISLE OF HARRIS GIN
Harris Gin is truly rooted in the local community and it was started as a way to curb the decline of the islands population. As with many of our small Scottish islands, the call of the mainland and jobs in the big cities is a beacon to the young folk. Harris Gin decided they needed to do something to provide prospects to the younger generation. Now they employ 40 permanent members of staff, which is a significant number when the total population is around 2000!
Their distillery and visitor centre is located in Tarbert and you’ll be guaranteed a very warm Gaelic welcome. Step inside to be welcomed by the roaring peat fire and the shop. Upstairs is the tasting area and distillery. It’s a fascinating place to visit and Marie Morrison, local guide, will give you a fantastic tour and tasting.
As gin drinkers, you will recognise the gorgeous Harris Gin bottle. It’s very distinctive and I’ve seen it turned into many a wonderful thing once the gin has been drank.
Harris Gin has a very distinctive taste which is sugar kelp seaweed, bringing a salty yet very umami taste to the gin. In Spring each year, Harris Gins distillery diver Lewis Mackenzie dones his black and red dry suit and braves the Hebridean sea lochs to hand harvest the sugar kelp. With only 7mm of neoprene to keep the cold waters at bay, Lewis collects the kelp by himself, free-diving during a two-hour window on either side of the fortnightly low spring tides.
Their copper still is called the Dotach and sits alongside their larger whisky still. (Their whisky should be ready any day now). Besides Sugar Kelp seaweed, you’ll also find 8 key botanicals namely Angelica, Bitter Orange, Cubebs, Liquorice, Cassia Bark, Coriander Seed, Orris Root and of course Juniper.
On The Nose – its juniper led followed immediately by the fresh citrus notes of bitter orange, lime and grapefruit. It develops a complex floral note of rose and wallflowers with crushed green herbs, coriander and gooseberry all underpinned by mixed spice. Sugar kelp adds to the complexity and richness and gives a dry maritime note.
On The Palate – It’s refreshing. There is a balance between bitter and sweet, herbaceous from the coriander. All in all it distinctive, smooth and dry.
On The Finish – Expect a long, clean finish. As the juniper and citrus fade away, sweet vanilla and black pepper remain with a gentle reminder of the sea,
Serving Suggestions are
· Sip it neat
· Pour over ice
· G&T, served with a slice of pink grapefruit.
HEBRIDEAN CHARCUTERIE
I am a freaking salami junkie and when it comes to venison salami, I will happily gorge myself all day long, so I was very excited to visit Brian and Melinda's setup at Hebridean Charcuterie in Stornoway.
It's a small space (they converted their garage into a prestine highly functioning professional kitchen) but effective and very efficient. They have some impressive kit ie fridges that perform all the dry ageing etc that enables them to produce some outstanding charcuterie.
Brian and Melindas ethos is simple - the meat has to come from the Outer Hebrides, wild and free range (no intensive farming), and the entire process has to be sustainable as well as good for the environment (no plastic packaging and low emissions).
Their meats range from rare-breed pigs, sheep, cows and wild geese reared by local crofters. They then prepare and cure the meat on site, slice it, package it and ship it. It really is a two person operation.
I got to sample their venison salami (gimme more) and tried their Pork Venison and Goose with crushed black pepper and garlic salami! Wow most impressed.
If you love a charcuterie board, why not order some salami from theses guys and give them a try. Honestly, the quality of meat is outstanding!
Unfortunately we couldn’t visit Loomshed Hebridean Brewery nor Flavour Chocolates but luckily we did get to sample some at dinner.
HARBOUR KITCHEN
After a very full and busy day of travelling, listening and talking it was a delight to dine at Award Winning Best Restaurant in the Highlands and Islands, the Harbour Kitchen. Chef Lachlan and his team really showcase the best of the isles in their menu and Iain from Island Spirit Whisky led us through a whisky tasting. What a perfect way to end this fabulous day! Read my review of my first visit to Harbour Kitchen - www.tartanspoon.co.uk/home/food-harbour-kitchen
Starters - Applewood Smoked Hebridean mussels with new pototoes, celeriac puree, crispy buckwheat and lemon oil.
Whisky - Deanston Single Malt Virgin Oak Cask
Intermediate - Hand dived Isle of Harris Scallop in seaweed and lime butter.
Mains - Lightly Spiced Cod, cauliflower veloute, braised red cabbage and mango.
Whisky - Oban 14yo Single Malt
Dessert - Crepe Cake, bitter chocolate mousse with a passionfruit and berry puree, raspberry sorbet and crushed almonds.
Whisky - Arran Single Malt Port Cask Finish
Their ethos is : Serving fresh local seafood, from sea to plate. They 100% certainly do! This is one place you HAVE to eat at when visiting the Isles of Lewis and Harris.
Meeting these producers was really eye opening and fascinating. These isles are tiny but the people are mighty and are producing some award wining products. We only scratched the surface, visiting a handful of food and drink producers but I know there is so much more discover.
I hope to be back soon.