STAY & DINE : The Lovat Hotel, Fort Augustus, Loch Ness

First impressions count don’t they? They set the tone for what’s to come, they create expectations that are hopefully matched.

Arrival at the Lovat Hotel is a little discombobulated. My sat-nav took me to the wrong entrance to the hotel, luckily we found the carpark easily enough after this. We then entered the hotel through the restaurant entrance and not reception with another guest couple who where equally confused but this gave us a nice wee tour along corridors, lounges and sitting rooms providing a wee sneak peak of some beautiful luxurious rooms the hotel had to offer.

REVIEW OF THE LOVAT HOTEL, FORT AUGUSTUS, LOCH NESS - MOR TASTING MENU AND OVERNIGHT STAY

The Lovat Hotel have a cracking offer available for us foodies. Dinner, bed and breakfast starting at £351 for two and includes the 7 course fine dining Mor Tasting Menu in their destination restaurant, Station Road.

Unfortunately, our first impressions of the hotel downstairs raised the bar and so when we got to our room, we had to adjust that level.

The double room is set in the eaves of the hotel with a large comfortable bed and a small window with views over the town.

The room was fine per say but it was all a little mish-mash of furniture with a silver grey bedside tables and a chest of drawers; and then a cream and wood dresser with hidden fridge inside that wasn’t cold but instead roasting hot to the touch. So hot in fact that we called maintenance as surely the heat generated from this fridge was a hazard (apparently not!)

The bathroom almost had the same footprint as the bedroom and felt sparse with a bathtub, shower and toilet. Plenty of floor space. Again, unfortunately there was no cold water just luke warm so it was unpleasant when brushing your teeth and a little annoying when trying to regulate the temperature of your bath water. It also meant we had no drinking water in the room, as the water in the fridge was warm too!

Maintenance informed us that as this is an old hotel, you have to expect these kinds of issues!

The staff were quick to respond to our maintenance checks and were as friendly and as helpful as they could be. The hotel rooms are in desperate need of refurbishment. This hotel has it all in abundance - location, size, car parking facilities, large rooms and bathrooms, beautiful reception areas and lounges, stunning dining rooms - it just needs some loving, some TLC and a lot of money thrown at it.

After a few hours of trying to settle into the hotel room, we headed down for dinner.

The dining room has a neutral colour palette using the large windows and light to create a beautiful dining space. The chairs are extremely comfortable which is a good thing as you’ll be sat here for a few hours.

There’s lovely detailed touches, like the presentation of the menu with a stamp seal.

1st COURSE

Duck Liver Twiglet

Loch Etive Sea trout with apple and dill

Smoked Haddock with curry and Highland gouda

This trio was presented at once, two of each to tantalise and open the taste buds. Was delighted that these were actually bite sized and you could pop them into your mouth and experience all the flavour. I am not a fan of Duck liver parfait, so Mr TS luckily had two of the twiglets. The profiterole with haddock and gouda was delicious and I could easily have popped another few!

2nd COURSE

Treacle Bannock and Bettys Bread with Smoked Tomato butter

There’s a little bit of Heston at play here with the very real looking tomato disguised as melt in the mouth smoked butter. This bannock was incredible and I would return to eat this alone. They make these fresh daily and the sweetness from the treacle really give this an edge. This bread is so popular that they now hand out the recipe on cards to all who dine!

3RD COURSE

Garden Tomatoes and Cucumber with scallop and seaweed

The memory of this dish will stay with me forever. A herbaceous tea is poured over your scallop dish and the delicate aroma fills the air. It lingers as you slowly savour every spoonful from this dish.

4TH COURSE

Foraged Mushrooms with Autumn truffle

This packs an earthy punch and transports you back to walking through the forest with crunchy vegetal leaves underfoot. Seriously tasty.

5TH COURSE

Fassfern Red Deer with celeriac and elderberries

Of course I am going to love this dish - its venison! Perfectly pink and a stunning showcase of Scottish Autumn produce.

Celeriac, apple and auld man’s milk

More a palate cleanser, this was light and frothy, delicate with subtle flavours.

6TH COURSE

Mike and Heathers blackcurrants and lemon cheesecake

I have to commend the chocolate work here, super fine providing a clean one tap touch to open this sphere up to reveal some intense lemon flavours.

7TH COURSE

Scottish Green Marble

This is revealed from under a closhe. An ice cold soothing pop of chocolate and icecream. Peppermint from their garden is used to make an Icecream which is then shaped into pebbles and dipped in cocoa butter to resemble Scottish green marble.

There are two tasting menus to choose from - The Mor costing £90pp and £75pp for the drinks flight OR the smaller tasting menu, Beag for £70pp and matching drink for £65pp.

We would have chosen the drinks flight but as a few dishes were paired with an ale and cocktails, we didn’t think we would enjoy the pairing nor find it good value for money.

They do also offer an alternative pairing menu which includes cocktails, gins, kombucha and sparkling juices for £55pp.

Overall the tasting menu was inventive, brilliantly executed and beautifully presented. Most of the dishes were to my taste and I enjoyed the dining experience; I only found the food portions to be on the small side. I was hungry about an hour later!

The staff were very polite, friendly but don’t like to be questioned on the food. They do get a little upset when you don’t agree on everything being delicious even when asked during check backs and unfortunately this shows on their faces and their behaviour as the night wears on. Our service started off well and then slowly deteriorated to the point of us having to wait for over 20 minutes for our dessert and then having to find someone to bring us the bill. A 7 course tasting menu should take around 2-2.5 hours to enjoy, this lasted well over 3.5 hours.

Chef Sean and his kitchen brigade show some incredible skill especially in the desserts and his use of Scottish produce was commendable.

THINGS TO NOTE

  • Try to find the correct entrance to the hotel

  • Rooms are comfortable but not amazing

  • Station Road can cater for allergies but you must give them plenty of notice (minimum 48 hours)

Station Road, Lovat Hotel, Fort Augustus, PH32 4DU www.thelovat.com

My Spoon Award : Silver Spoon 7/10 (6/10 for accommodation and 8/10 for the food)

I booked and paid for my dining experience at The Lovat Hotel. Food and drink were bought for by me and not complimentary in exchange for a review. Views are very much my own.