FOOD : Best places to eat in Castlebay, Barra
Visiting the Outer Hebrides may be for some a bucket list visit, a return to their ancestral home, or another Scottish island to tick off your list.
The largest island of the Outer Hebrides is Lewis and Harris, and the other large islands are North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. And I’ve been lucky enough to have visited them all!
Whether you reach these islands via ferry (on foot, car or bicycle) or by plane, one of the very first things I do after I find my bearings, is find out where there is to eat.
Now there is a main ring road that runs around the island of Barra with a few side roads leading off from the main road. This main road pretty much leads you to Castle Bay, the largest village on the Isle of Barra and the ferry port.
It is here that you will find the most places open for something to eat. Do be aware that these places are seasonal and although open, may not serve lunch just dinner. Also you need to BOOK! Book your dining in advance as these places are busy with very little wiggle room for walk-ins.
CASTLEBAY HOTEL
You can’t miss the CastleBay Hotel and the Craigard Hotel. They sit almost side by side up on the hill overlooking Castle Bay, Kisimul Castle (permanently closed) and Vatersay Beach in the distance.
This is where you need to tuck into the best of Scottish Seafood. The view and a glass of wine, just makes it all the more special. Try to get the centre table at the window as this makes all the difference.
Do order the Scottish Langoustines with chips and garlic butter. Superb!
If you are hungry however, order a starter or an additional meal as this plate will merely whet your appetite.
Castlebay, Isle of Barra, HS9 5XD www.castlebayhotel.com
CRAIGARD HOTEL
Both hotels have large dining rooms, but Craigard Hotel does have various rooms for dining and if you want that view, ask to be seated at the window. The view will never get old!
Their menu is filled with seasonal dishes and plenty of seafood such as Scallops, Monkfish, Barra Salmon and good ol haddock.
You cannot go wrong with a large plate of battered fish n chips with peas and tartare sauce. I heartily tucked into this for dinner alongside a starter of hand-dived Scallops.
Excellent. Staff are friendly, they serve great pints and are in no rush to move you from your seat at the window.
Craigard Hotel, Castlebay, Isle of Barra, HS9 5XD www.craigardhotel.co.uk
CAFE KISIMUL
Now I never thought I would be indulging in the taste of the Punjab on a remote Scottish island, but it just so happens that you can. Cafe Kisimul is a must visit.
According to their website it‘s ‘Hebridean produce, classic curries, Scottish beer and rock and roll!’ and I wholeheartedly agree.
They cater very well for vegans, vegetarians and gluten freebies with many of their dishes suitable for those with these dietary requirements - they even serve up some interesting desserts like the Vegan Chai Masala Pannacotta with mango puree. One to be tasted for sure!
Plenty of seafood and local ingredients shine here - Barra lamb, Monkfish and their Scallop Pakora is a must try!
They are only open in the evenings. It’s a small cafe with a big heart, so be sure to get your booking in early!
Cafe Kisimul, Main Street, Castlebay, Isle of Barra www.cafekisimul.co.uk
BUTH BHARRAIGH
If there is a beating heart of Barra, you will find it here. Buth Bharraigh translates as Shop Barra and its here you will find an array of things you need and things you didn’t know you needed. They have a selection of food, a refillery, soap, candles, crafts, art and everything inbetween.
Bùth Bharraigh isn’t just a shop its a community retail and visitor hub; a social enterprise that helps the community flourish by providing a range of goods and services.
They are also the visitor centre providing information to tourists, finding accommodation, and signposting people to activities and events on the islands. They also help visitors to the island to get the most from their stay, however short or long.
Basically Buth Bharraigh is a one stop shop and if you are ever stuck for anything, Sarah MacLean (Co-founder and Manager) and Naomi Robarts (Shop Assistant) will do their utmost to help you in any way they can.
This might be the only place open for lunch and they have a great selection of local foods - oatcakes, venison salami, baked goods, crisps, cold drinks, salmon, pickles etc. Grab yourself some ingredients for a picnic and wander down to the harbour.
Bùth Bharraigh Ltd, Castlebay, Isle of Barra, HS9 5XD www.buthbharraigh.co.uk
JOANS BARRA PIZZA
Although not located in Castlebay, but in Borve, Joans Pizza is worth a taxi fare to collect and return back to Castlebay.
Their pizzas are hand stretched and made to order. I can confirm they are superb and they have some very interesting toppings - The Breakfast Pizza with an egg, Doner Pizza and Chicken Tikka Pizza. They do the basic pizzas too but why not try something different.
Joan’s Pizza’s are only available to order Thursday, Friday and Saturdays during a specific time slot ie 5pm-7pm. They also put out the Pizza Stone - if you find it, you get yourself a free pizza.
All opening and ordering times as well as hints on where to find the pizza stone, are updated on their Facebook page www.facebook.com/joansbarrapizza
Joan’s Barra Pizza, 3, Borve, Isle of Barra HS9 5XR www.joansbarrapizza.com
Visiting a Scottish island is like nothing you will ever experience. They run to their own time, the weather is unpredictable but the people are generous, genuinely friendly, helpful and just oh so lovely!
Barra is a most beautiful island and there are some fabulous places to eat across the island, which I will cover in another post, but for now, I hope you book/visit at least one of these places when you land on Barra and find yourself in Castlebay which you inevitably will.
Many thanks to Visit Outer Hebrides and Scotland Food and Drink for the Meet the Producer Tour on which I got to experience all these superb places to eat and drink across the Outer Hebrides.
TartanSpoon is an Award-winning blog that brings you reviews and recommendations on the very best places to eat, drink and stay in Edinburgh, Scotland and beyond.
Adele is a writer, reviewer and judge living in Edinburgh. She sits on the Committee for the Guild of Food Writers (Scottish Events), is a Great Taste Judge for the Guild of Fine Food, Scottish Bakers and a Judge for the Gin Co-operative awards.
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