Uist, Benbecula, Berneray and Grimsay - Food Drink & Stay Guide
The Outer Hebrides, also known as the Western Isles, is an archipelago off the west coast of Scotland, renowned for its rugged landscapes, pristine beaches, and rich Gaelic culture. Comprising a string of islands such as Lewis, Harris, Uist, and Barra, each isle boasts its own unique charm and character. Visitors to the Outer Hebrides can expect to be awe-struck by the dramatic cliffs of St Kilda, wander the ancient standing stones of Callanish, or simply unwind on the white sandy shores of Luskentyre beach. The islands are a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, with opportunities to spot dolphins, seals, and rare bird species. Whether you seek outdoor adventure, historical exploration, or simply a peaceful retreat, the Outer Hebrides offer a truly unforgettable experience in the heart of wild Scotland.
This is my second visit to the Outer Hebrides with Outer Hebrides Tourism showcasing the very best of food and drink on the islands.
This visit takes in North and South Uist, Berneray and Grimsay.
For my Guide to food and drink producers on Lewis and Harris, click HERE.
For my Guide to food and drink producers on Barra - that’s coming soon!
For this trip we fly into Barra, take the ferry to Eriskay and then the bus from the ferry terminal at Eriskay over the causeway onto South Uist.
BARRA AIRPORT
There are a few options for getting to Uist. The most spectacular way is flying into Barra and landing on the beach. This is the only flight in the world that lands and takes off from a beach. The airplane is tiny, seating around 10-12 people, its noisy and small, with no flight attendants and no tea and coffee but it does come with the most incredible views that you will never peel your eyes away from looking out the window.
The flight takes around an hour flying from Glasgow with Loganair and it’s definitely on many people’s bucket list.
Other options on travelling to Uist are:
Fly in to Benbecula airport from Glasgow.
There are two Calmac ferries. One departing from Mallaig to Lochboisdale on South Uist. The crossing takes approximately 3.5 hours and leaves 1-2 times per day. The second ferry departs from Uig on Skye to Lochmaddy on North Uist.
FERRY TO ERISKAY
The ferry terminal is approx 5 minutes drive from the airport. There are a few taxi drivers on Barra that will give you a lift or just ask someone (most people on the island are super friendly and helpful).
The ferry is relatively cheap and as we were walk on passengers without a vehicle, the cost was £3.65 per person, one way. The ferry is quite small with seating up on deck. It takes around 40 minutes to cross.
BUS TO SOUTH UIST
Once you arrive at the Eriskay ferry terminal, the local bus is usually waiting on ferry passengers. It cost around £2pp to catch the bus from the ferry to our accommodation, Borrowdale Hotel on South Uist. It’s only about a 20 minute drive and we had the bus to ourselves. The bus driver is full of local knowledge and was only too happy to point out various landmarks and provide background history on the islands. You will also drive past the Eriskay Football Pitch which Fifa has credited as one of “8 most remarkable places to play football in the world”!
Bus timetable - www.cne-siar.gov.uk/home/bus-services/uists-benbecula-berneray-and-eriskay-timetables/
BORRODALE HOTEL
Daliburgh, Isle Of South Uist, Daliburgh HS8 5SS www.isleshotelgroup.co.uk/borrodale-hotel
Nestled amidst the breathtaking beauty of South Uist Outer Hebrides, the Borrodale Hotel stands as a tranquil oasis for travellers. Located in Daliburgh this is a ideal spot for an overnight kip and a hot meal. The hotel is family run and many of the staff you’ll find work elsewhere on the island too. It’s charming. Of course you can’t come to the Outer Hebrides without gorging yourself on seafood and luckily their menu is packed full of mouth watering seafood dishes. I couldn’t resist the langoustines!
Read my full review HERE
CROFT AND CUAN
Unit 9, Lochboisdale Pier Development, Lochboisdale, HS8 5TP www.facebook.com/CroftandCuan
Lochboisdale, located on the southern coast of South Uist in the Outer Hebrides, is a small, charming village that surrounds the Calmac ferry terminal to Mallaig, Oban or Castlebay. Visitors boarding or disembarking the ferry at this tranquil haven have access to an absolute foodie gem less than a 2 minute walk from the pier - say hello to Croft and Cuan.
For everything from locally sourced seafood to freshly baked cookies, Croft and Cuan have it.
Read my review HERE
LONG ISLAND RETREATS
Tigh na Breacain, Loch Skipport, South Uist, HS8 5NS www.longislandretreats.co.uk
Nestled amidst the rugged beauty of the Uist Outer Hebrides, Long Island Retreats and Larder beckons travellers seeking solace and a connection with nature. Offering a true escape from the bustling world, these retreats present a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in tranquility. Surrounded by breathtaking landscapes where white sandy beaches meet machair, guests can indulge in long walks along the shoreline, absorbing the power that ‘island time’ gives you, to getting up close to their Highland Cattle, Shetland Ponies, Saddleback Pigs and Wild Red Deer. At Long Island Retreats it is all about staying, exploring and tasting the very best of South Uist.
Read my full review HERE
SALAR SMOKEHOUSE AT CHARLIES BISTRO
The Pier, Lochcarron, Isle of South Uist, HS8 5PD www.salarsmokehouse.co.uk
Located in the captivating landscape of South Uist, Salar Smoked Salmon Smokehouse stands as a hidden gem for seafood enthusiasts. Nestled amidst rolling hills and surrounded by the breathtaking views of the Outer Hebrides in Scotland, this smokehouse offers a truly authentic experience. The remote beauty of South Uist contributes to the exceptional flavours that define Salar's smoked salmon. Their smoked salmon is incredible but you’ll definitely want to gorge yourself on their smoked scallops.
Read my article HERE
NORTH UIST DISTILLERY
Nunton Steadings, Bennecula, HS7 5LU www.northuistdistillery.com/
A foodie road trip is not complete until you’ve stopped in to try the local gin. North Uist Distillery is home to multiple award-winning gin Downpour. They have Downpour original, Downpour Coast & Croft which is extremely popular and Pink grapefruit is if downright delicious.
Besides a great visitor centre and shop, they host gin tastings for £25pp. You get 4 x 25ml perfect serves of each of the flavours of Downpour Gin. Pre-poured measures. A 5ml sample of theirOak Aged Negroni cocktail.
North Uist Distillery are about to launch their Nunton whisky so keep an eye out for that!
THE CREEL YARD & SALT TUNNELS
Grimsay, North Uist, Outer Hebrides. www.northuistbunkhouse.co.uk/the-creel-yard
Nestled along the picturesque coastline of the Isle of Grimsay, North Uist in the Outer Hebrides, lies the rustic Creel Yard Camping. The camping site is located just above a sleepy harbour that reflects the enduring spirit of a community shaped by the rhythms of the ocean.
It’s a hidden gem that promises a truly idyllic getaway for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike.
The Creel Yard has two types of accommodation available : bunkhouses and pods. The pods come with turfed roofs offering a unique and eco-friendly accommodation experience, blending seamlessly into their natural surroundings while providing cosy comfort for outdoor enthusiasts. The turfed roofs also act as a way to weigh down the pods in high winds!
Bunkhouses are the perfect accommodation option for adventurers and cyclists seeking a cosy communal space and an authentic rustic experience. They are warm with basic but very comfortable beds and can sleep 1-4 people
It’s also here you’ll find the salt tunnels. Lucy and Duncan, who own the Creel Yard also collect salt water from various spots around Uist and bring it into these polly tunnels to evaporate and create salt. In theory, they should be able to create different flavours of salt depending on location and collection of the salt water. This is a project in progress. Definitely one to watch!
THE WEE COTTAGE KITCHEN
Struan, Malaclete, North Uist, Outer Hebrides www.facebook.com/theweecottagekitchen
This is Coffee Stop Mecca! The service and food are tremendous but its the location in which you will enjoy your cuppa and bite to eat that is just a little beyond words!
Welcome to The Wee Cottage Kitchen, perched on the the edge of Valley Strand, North Uist, Outer Hebrides.
Read my article HERE
BERNERAY SHOP AND BISTRO
Berneray, HS6 5BJ Facebook
Location! Location! Location! This shop and bistro is perfectly located for the Berneray ferry, serving tea, coffee, cakes and a good lunch/evening menu. Seating area outside takes advantage of the incredible views. The shop is small but packed with useful necessities and stocks many local goods and produce.
LOCHMADDY PRAWNS
Clachan Sands (Village), North Uist, Outer Hebrides, HS6 5AY www.lochmaddybayprawns.co.uk
DA and Tina, bring you the freshest most lush Scottish langoustines/prawns directly from the fishing boat!
You’ll find Lochmaddy Bay Prawns ‘bullet’ truck parked up at many an event held across the Outer Hebrides but mostly parked up at Clachan Sands (Village), North Uist.
As a lunch stop, it doesn’t come much better than this. Pop into their home base in Clachan Sands and gorge yourself on langoustines, prawns, crab and squat lobster. Grab a roll, a wrap or a platter and for afters why not have a Mr Whippy ice-cream.
Read my article HERE
BENCECULA AIRPORT
Benbecula airport follows the same UK regulations as every other airport, with check-in and security. They fly to Stornoway, Inverness or Glasgow from here.
The planes are a little larger than those used for Barra landings and you’ll even get a wee Tunnocks Wafer and a water on board. Flight time to /from Glasgow is around an hour.
Just prepare yourself though - the views are incredible!
The wonderful thing about the Outer Hebrides is that everything is stunning, so take your time. Enjoy the journey and whatever route you take, I hope you find some amazing food or at the very least, an honesty box!
For more info on the Outer Hebrides visit www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk
TartanSpoon is an Award-winning blog that brings you reviews and recommendations on the very best places to eat, drink and stay in Edinburgh, Scotland and beyond.
Adele is a writer, reviewer, judge and panelist living in Edinburgh. She sits on the Committee for the Guild of Food Writers (Scottish Events), is a Great Taste Judge for the Guild of Fine Food, Scottish Bakers and a Judge for the Gin Co-operative awards.
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