I never had the chance to visit the Michelin starred 21212 in Edinburgh under the helm of Chef Paul Kitching’s and never will. Sadly this highly esteemed Chef passed away in 2022.

However, Chef Stuart Ralston was handed the opportunity to take over well loved space and opened his 4th restaurant in the city, Lyla. I for one, am so glad he did.

Located on Royal Terrace in a Georgian Townhouse, the entrance is inconspicuous with a very pale, paired back sign. There are remains of Chef Paul’s legacy evident with the word ‘restaurant’ still inscribed above the door and the doorbell alerting the Maitre d’ to your arrival.

REVIEW OF LYLA BY STUART RALSTON, EDINBURGH

The decor is a stunning blend of contemporary elegance and timeless sophistication. As you step inside, you are greeted by a warm and inviting ambiance, with soft lighting and luxurious earthy tones that create a sense of intimacy. The sleek, modern furniture is complemented by perfectly white linen table clothes. The thoughtful attention to detail is evident throughout, from the delicate tableware to your name printed on the menu welcoming you and your guest to the restaurant. Lyla strikes the perfect balance between elegant sophistication and a comforting, welcoming atmosphere, making it a truly captivating dining destination.

The menu reads beautifully. It has a strong focus on Scottish seafood with a lengthy tasting menu (10 courses) for dinner and a 5 course tasting menu for lunch available only of Fridays and Saturdays.

We dined on a Friday lunchtime.

Within minutes of letting staff know our drinks preferences, one wine pairing and one soft drink pairing, our Appetisers arrived. These delicate morsels set the tone for the entire meal, offering a tantalising preview of the culinary journey to come. Exquisite culinary creations in their own right, these bite-sized masterpieces are meticulously plated showcasing a deep understanding of flavour balance and texture.

Alp Blossom cheese, onion and quince. A homage to the fromage of Alp Blossom cheese with all the flowers pressed into the rind/cracker with a quince jam filling. Beautifully delicate and packed full of flavour.

Lobster, kohlrabi and sake. Thin casing holding an incredible bite of soft saltiness. The pearls ontop pop in the mouth. Fun and interactive especially when the spheres topple off!

Laminated brioche, cultured butter and caperberry. Insanely good bread course and I have to applaud Chef for providing ample butter, two in fact. The warm brioche bread was melt in the mouth raising my expectations and excitement.

1st Course

Cured plaice, radish and Exmoor caviar. What a visually stunning plate of intricate design - small radish slices meticulously arranged to create an exquisite work of culinary art.

2nd Course

Turbot, Shetland mussel and muscade pumpkin. Another masterpiece that was one of my favourites dishes of the meal. The flavour resembles Cullen Skink and every mouthful was rich and comforting, with a perfect balance of smoky, creamy and aromatic.

Stuart Skea is the Sommelier here and presents both pairings throughout the meal. He was recently rated no. 4 in the UK by Sommelier Edit. I thought the non-alcoholic pairings really added an extra layer to my tasting menu, some adding and complimenting, some contrasting.

1st Course

Non-Alcoholic pairing was a Seedlip Martini with samphire. Clear, smooth and slightly briny.

The Wine pairing was Sohomare, Junmai Ginjo Indigo, Tochigi from Japan. This sake was clean, clear and silky with a long mineral finish and very dry.

2nd Course

Non-Alocholic pairing was the sparkling fermented Royal Flush Tea. Very fragrant and fresh on the nose and delicately acidic on the palate.

The Wine pairing was the Leonardo Bussoletti, Colle Murello, Umbria, Italy 2021. A savoury and complex wine, with notes of balsamic and citrus. Again very dry.

3rd Course

Red legged partridge, ethical duck liver and green peppercorn. The centre piece most definitely came with a side of WOW factor. Another visually striking plate of partridge legs decorated with edible flowers arranged in a herb garden.

Plated was breast of partridge with foie gras and an unctuous sauce served up alongside this.

3rd Course

Non-Alcoholic pairing was the earthy and viscous Beetroot Juice which paired so well with the partridge.

The Wine pairing was Marcel LaPierre, Morgan, Burgandy, France, 2021. Incredible aromas on the nose of big juicy fruits whilst on the palate there was cherries and a bright acidity.

4th Course

Non-Alcoholic pairing was the Milkshake with Mallow Root. Playful and enjoyable.

The Wine pairing was the Dauphine-Rondillion, Cuvee d’or, Bordeaux, France, 2009. The aroma and the taste were matched here. This dessert wine was filled to the brim with honey, caramel, almonds, vanilla and some fruits.

Superb final drinks to finish lunch on!

4th Course

Pre-dessert of Yorkshire rhubarb, red pepper and goats milk. Neither of us are big fans of rhubarb but this gorgeous wee dish surprised us. The goats milk crumble was light and cold against a very subtle taste of rhubarb.

5th Course

Dessert of Chocolate, barley koji and salted milk. This dessert strikes the perfect balance between rich, velvety chocolate, and the deep umami flavour of fermented barley. The chocolate cigar a particular favourite and the whole dish, perfectly portioned.

Petit Fours of Praline Bon Bon and Coffee Choux Craquelin.

Chef Stuart Ralston, has created a culinary playground here showcasing his years of honing his craft and skills. I love that the chefs each have an opportunity to shine and present their dishes to you at the table creating a carousel of non-stop plates of true culinary delight.

THINGS TO NOTE ABOUT LYLA

• They do not accommodate vegetarian or vegan diets, or menus completely free of milk protein, eggs, fish and shellfish.

• They do offer gluten free alternatives and can alter to suit pescatarian diets and nut allergies.

• Disabled access is restricted.

• Lunch is only served on a Friday and Saturday costing £65pp

• Dinner is served Wednesday to Saturday costing £165pp

• Wine pairing £45pp

• Soft pairing £25pp

Lyla, 3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh www.lylaedinburgh.co.uk

My Spoon Award : Tartan Spoon 10/10

TartanSpoon is an Award-winning blog that brings you reviews and recommendations on the very best places to eat, drink and stay in Edinburgh, Scotland and beyond.

Adele is a writer, reviewer, judge and panelist living in Edinburgh. She sits on the Committee for the Guild of Food Writers (Scottish Events),  is a Great Taste Judge for the Guild of Fine Food and a Judge for the Gin Co-operative awards.

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