REVIEW : Six by Nico, Edinburgh

After all the ballyhoo, the hype and my Instagram story feed filled with photographs of the amazing, the wonderful, the best thing to hit Edinburgh since sliced bread, Six by Nico; I got around to eating there for lunch.

The restaurant is neat with everything in the right place. The large open finishing kitchen at the back and the bar area tucked around the corner; and two large screens streaming live allowing you to see what the chefs are plating up on the pass. The decor is a palette of browns with a hint of teal here and there. It looks expensive but the seats are tight.

It was lunchtime and on arrival there were maybe three tables seated. Upon leaving the place was nearly full but not only had the covers increased so had the noise level which just seems to reverberate off every surface.

What I did find amusing was the fact that the postie, the laundry delivery service and someone seeking a job all walked straight in and up to the pass to speak to the Chefs. Amid service, I could see the Chefs frustration and diners amusement.

Onto the food as that was what we came for. The concept with Six by Nico is there are six courses that change every six weeks. The ‘Chippie’ theme was being served on our visit and runs until Sunday 13th May. From the 15th May until 24th June the new menu theme will be Cooking Wonka based on my favourite movie, Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory.

First Course – Chips and Cheese. Parmesan Espuma, crisp potato and curry oil which translates into potatoes that have been shredded and fried to make them crispy, covered with a cheese foam with a drizzle of curry oil over the top.

This was very tasty. It was particularly cheesy and the potato shreds remained crispy underneath the foam. I couldn’t really taste the curry oil as such but it might just have added to the overall taste of the dish. Luckily this was the starter dish as although it was tasty you couldn’t have eaten a large bowl of it.

Second Course – Scampi. Scrabster Monkfish Cheek, pea ketchup, herb pesto and bergamot which translates into three pieces of battered monkfish, served with peas, peashoots and some smashed pea and herbs.

This is really high end fish goujons. The monkfish is quite a meaty fish and therefore great for a batter and deep frying. I felt the fish was under seasoned but it does make a very pretty picture.

Third Course – Steak Pie. Speyside Beef Shin, caramelised and charred onion, red wine which translates into two discs of crispy pastry with crispy onion rings ontop, a disc of beef shin in a red wine sauce.

The beef was very tender but lacked seasoning and I don’t feel that the red wine sauce was bold and strong enough to provide the depth of flavours it required. The discs of pastry were super crispy rather than flaky and just overall this dish just didn’t hit the mark for me.

Fourth Course – Fish Supper. Shetland Cod, Beer Emulsion, Pickled mussels, Confit Fennel and Samphire and is pretty much what I’ve described.

My least favourite dish of the six courses, I felt it wasn’t a balanced dish. Texture wise it was all quite soft; and the cod was cooked well, just not to perfection. I did love the bed of samphire and confit fennell though.

Fifth Course – Smoked Sausage. Ayrshire pork, salt baked celeriac, caramelised apple which translates into pulled pork wrapped in essentially a potato rosti served under a smoked filled closhe.

Gepostet von Tartanspoon am Donnerstag, 3. Mai 2018

This was a very tasty dish but was it a clever take on smoked sausage??

I’m not sure. The celeriac was hard however the caramelised apple was lovely. The pork rosti sausages were quite delightful, crunchy on the outside and sweet pork in the middle.

Sixth Course – Deep Fried Mars Bar. Chocolate Sorbets, orange and caramilla nougat which was quenelles of bitter chocolate sorbet and doughball.

The lighter brown sorbet was delicious; smooth and creamy caramel. I didn’t like the orange with it and found it a very rich dessert. The wee doughball was delightful.

The food here is perfectly presented and instantly Instagrammable. For most the food is tasty and it definitely adds a different dimension to Edinburgh’s dining scene.

The service was fine, friendly enough, but the front of house staff did get a little flustered the busier it got.

I am a fan of the concept and I cannot wait to see future menus. Willy Wonka sounds like it is going to be very creative and fun; but next time I will also know what to expect, but for £28 for six courses, this is still a great place to experience something different.

Six by Nico, 97 Hanover Street, Edinburgh. Tel : 0131 2255050

My Spoon Award : Silver 8/10



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