A Review of Geranium, Copenhagen 3 Michelin Stars

Standing in the elevator, slowly ascending to the eighth floor, my tummy was doing backwards flips from sheer joy and excitement. Little did I know that 4 hours later I’d be back in the same elevator descending having reached food nirvana and wearing a euphoric smile on my face.
From the moment you hear the ping of the elevator (8th floor of the Parken Stadium) and take your first step into Geranium, you are effortlessly whisked away in a cloud like bubble of dining perfection.

Everything is this restaurant has been carefully thought through. The placement of the tables to ensure great views of the restaurant, the kitchen and the cityscape.

The furniture is exquisite blending in with the minimal décor and muted colour palette which provides the perfect backdrop for each and every dish and wine served on the Winter Universe Menu.

Be warned : this is a long post with images that will make your mouth water.

Lobster, milk, juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn. Once your spoon cuts through the orange juice at the top, it was enveloped in what can only be described as a lobster crème caramel but savoury. Large succulent chunks of lobster lay underneath hitting all the umami notes.

Jerusalem artichoke leaves, hazelnut oil and rye vinegar. This dish is so beautiful and there was the moment of – what am I suppose to eat here? Our server soon informed us. Just the leaves. These 4 beautiful crisp like leaves carefully placed poking out of a dish of shrubbery and moss are wafer thin, super delicate, melt on the tongue and have a very distinctive taste of artichoke.

Tomato water, ham fat and aromatic herbs. The tomato water was ever so slightly tinted red but with a very clear taste of tomato. The ham fat was poured into this dish and the whole dish turned to jelly. You then sprinkled the delicate flowers and herbs over the top of the dish. This was my least favourite dish – I loved the taste but I couldn’t quite get my tastebuds around the texture. Again a very pretty dish.

Charred potato in aroma of bark and sheeps butter. Two teaspoons filled with a white cream like substance sprinkled with black specs arrived at the table. Then a plate with a smoke filled closhe was delivered. Inside it was filled with campfire smoke and potatoes. You place the charred potato in the butter, wait till it melts a wee bit then pop the whole thing in your mouth. Nights hundled around the campfire came flooding back and this is exactly what Chef Rasmus Kofoed was trying to achieve with this dish. Nostalgia on a plate. Simple. Effective. Delicious.

Dillstone scallop, horseradish and frozen juice from pickled dill. A very clever and well executed dish. As my readers know, I am a massive fan of scallops. Don’t mess with a scallop! And so I was intrigued to see how Geranium had elevated this gorgeous sea food. The presentation was impressive. Large black/grey ice cold stones with the bright green dill pebbles placed perfectly. In a bowl, was the frozen dill granita with the horseradish cream. Pluck a dillstone from its prime position on the stones, scoop up some granita and horseradish, and you have the most exciting taste of the sea ever! A very fun dish.

Razor clam with minerals and sour cream. For those of you who are Foodies and watch anything that relates to food on the TV, you will have watched Rick Stein’s Something for the Weekend where he visits Copenhagen and Geranium. These hand painted edible razor clams filled with razor clam tartare feature in the programme and they are Chef Rasmus’ signature dish that took over two years to develop. The shells are edible and made from a wheat flour and painted with algae and charcoal powder.

Wine pairing : 2015 Alvarinho, Anselmo Mendes, Vinho Verde, Portugal paired with all the appetizers.

Salted hake, parsley stems and Finnish caviar in buttermilk with crispy fishscales. Simply stunning! I didn’t manage to get a photograph of it, but the disc of hake is almost camouflaged with the plate. It has similar marbled effect on it and is delivered to the table as that. The servers then dish up the parsley stems and caviar in buttermilk working in perfect unison spooning it over the top of both our plates of fish. The crispy fishscales finish off the dish and remind me of popping candy. They are super crispy and tasty. The fish is beautifully cooked and the caviar buttermilk is outstanding. This entire dish is sheer perfection.

Grilled Limfjord oyster, sol, fermented cabbage and browned butter. Oysters are the one shellfish I don’t like but as this was a dining experience I certainly wasn’t going to let that stop me from tasting this dish. The large oyster was cut up and placed at the bottom of the bowl with the juice and butter and garnish at the top. It wasn’t to my liking but I am glad I tasted it.

Wine pairing : 2013 Muscadet Sevre et Marne, Pierre Luneau-Papin, Loire, France paired with the hake and the oyster dishes.

Crispy grains, bread with old grains and gluten free bread with seeds. What a display! And these remained on the table for the next couple of courses. The breads were slightly warm, freshly baked and served with creamy slightly sweet buttermilk butter. I was most impressed with the gluten free breads. They were nutty and light. The crackers were thin and cheese flavoured and I could easily of eaten more.

Pickled carrots, smoked pork fat and melted Vesterhavs cheese (aged cheese from North West Denmark). This little dish was a delight for the eyes. The carrots were little pops of pickled sweetness and the pork fat with the cheese – well you can only imagine what that tasted like especially if you are a lover of pork and cheese!

Wine pairing : 2015 Rotschiefer Riesling Kabinett, Van Volxem, Mosel, Germany paired with the breads and the carrot dish.

Lightly salted turbot, celeriac, pickled pine and ramson. This was a very grown up dish. Well presented, well balanced and well cooked. The turbot definitely took centre stage.
Wine pairing : 2009 Blanc des Blancs, Nyetimber, Sussez, England.

Walnuts, walnut skin, cep mushroom soup and black truffle. Oh my this was so good. I was unsure what to expect and the look of the dish gives away nothing of the taste except if you like truffle. The walnuts were crunchy but soaked through from the mushroom soup and the black truffle slithers brought this whole dish together. A dish I could easily have eaten again and Mr TartanSpoon was in foodie heaven when they brought the truffles to the table to shave them over our dishes. (I think he really like truffles!)

Wine pairing : 2012 Clos du Bourg Vouvray Sec, Domaine Huet, Loire, France

Wild duck with aroma of juniper, black trumpet mushrooms and quince. This was quite a theatrical dish. A whole duck breast nestled in some herbs and shrubbery was brought to the table where it was then prepared and plated in front of us. The overall presentation was that of a duck breast and duck egg. The duck breast was sweet, tender, succulent with each mouthful tasting better than the last. The quince was sweet which worked well with the deep rich smoky flavour of the black trumpet mushrooms.

Wine pairing : 2010 Underhill Shiraz, Yarra Yering, Yarra Valley, Australia.

A bite of beetroot, plum, yoghurt and tagetes (edible marigold flowers). Prepare to be blown away. This little ball of fun was divine. During our tour of the kitchen and Mr TartanSpoon talking to the head chef, I watched one of the sous chefs prepare these wee spheres of crystalised beetroot and plum. Presented on a spoon, this mouthful was an explosion of taste and textures that all complimented each other. Bring on the party!

Ice cream from beeswax and pollen, dried apple, black honey and elderberries. Agreed all round that this honey was outstanding. Black honey is rare and expensive hence the teaspoonful delivered with this dessert. On its own it was delicious and combined with the ice-cream and apples – a wee piece of heaven!

Caramel with roasted grains, chamomile and pear. I wanted to stare at this plate for a long time but also couldn’t wait to tuck in. The pear disc was ingenious- a concentration of pear flavour and the caramel was smooth. The mousse in the centre looks like a meringue but was light and fluffy and brought this whole dish together.

The End. I love liquorice and this was a little bit of drama delivered at the end of an epic meal. The skull filled with creamy sweet caramel. The plate added to the overall piece and looked just as fantastic as a whole skull and when smashed with the back of a spoon!

Wine pairing : 2015 Gruner Veltliner Eiswein, Tschida, Burgenland, Austria paired with all the desserts.

We took a seat in the snug area to finish off the last of our wine and continue to eat more. The petit fours were all delicious little morsels but I was so glad that they were bite sized (did I actually say that!?!) as there truly was no space left.
Pumpkin tree and cake with pumpkin seed oil.
Caramel, dried gooseberry juice and aromatic seeds.
Chocolate with oats and sea buckthorn.
Green egg with pine.
Marshmallow with rose hip.

We enjoyed the Winter Universe menu (2000Dkk or £230pp) with paired wines (1400Dkk or £160pp)

Here are the three prestigious Boucse d’Or awards that Head Chef Patron Rasmus Kofoed has won a bronze in 2007, silver in 2009 and gold in 2011.

A tour through the wine cellar which holds approx. 1900 bottles of red and white wine.

Decanting a bottle of red wine by melting the neck of the bottle. A wonderful spectacle for all to watch.

The private dining area.

Their sensational charcuterie cold store.

The kitchen, behind the scenes with views over the football stadium.

The kitchen, at the front in the restaurant.

This is by far my most extravagant, amazing, you-haven’t-dined-until-you’ve-dined-here dining experience. The service is exceptional. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and confident. The dishes display the skills, talent and dedication of all the staff. It’s wonderful to dine in a place where every ingredient is well thought about, respected and presented in the best way possible.

Thank you Mr TartanSpoon and Geranium for the best Christmas present ever!

Geranium, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 2100 København Ø, Denmark.                                                  Tel :  +45 69 96 00 20 www.geramium.dk


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